The Case for Caves & Lost Bridges

A long weekend is a wonderful thing as it gives one the chance to get away and explore for more than one night – even if it ends up just being two. And while perhaps I spent just a bit too much time actually in the car rather than out and about enjoying the sights and sounds of New Zealand, I did get the chance to see some Kiwi icons.

First up, the Waitomo Caves. There are actually three cave systems you can go to, and my travel buddies and I went to the two more well travelled routes, the Glow Worm Cave and the Aranui Cave. The Glow Worm Cave I have done several times before, heard the same speech about the acoustics several times (though an experiment by the more vocally gifted in our group (Fish and LaurenOrder) kind of destroyed that assertion, as the limestone absorbs sound, whereas I always thought the point of good acoustics was that the sound travels), and been in the little tin boat as you are magically transported to a galaxy of stars made up of thousands of tiny, carnivorous creatures. Each time though, the Glow Worm Cave leaves me with a warm glow, especially experiencing it with someone else for the first time.

Travelling back past the burnt out shell of the old Tourist Office, we headed over the Aranui Cave. For some inexplicable reason, after the almost religiously austere tour of the Glow Worm Cave, the Aranui Cave gave us a free-for-all chance to snap shots of the rock formations and creepy crawlies – as many as our cameras would allow, given the dark conditions. Obviously the no touching rule was still in force, but given the chance to snap away I couldn’t contain myself and went into the digital tens before I got myself under control again. I suppose the fact the Glow Worm Cave does contain photosensitive glow worms where as the Aranui Cave just contains large, creepy wetas is probably the reason for the difference, but a huge difference it made. Attempts to listen to the quiet of the cave were dashed by the electronic beeping of cameras and the far more intrusive screechings of young children, brought along to torment the childless on the tour.

A different kind of experience awaited us on the trip to the Bridge to Nowhere. While passing through Jerusalem, Bethlehem and Athens (the Whanganui river versions) to get to Pipiriki felt iconic, the windy gravel road to get there was a traumatic experience, and while the route out was also on another windy gravel road, it had the benefit of being a shorter stretch. Pipiriki itself was not the destination (obviously), but the jump on point for the 45 jet-boat ride up the Wanganui to the bridge itself. First though we had to wait until the pull of the Rugby World Cup final on our guide Ben dissipated enough to allow him to come to collect us from the meeting point – I spent many a minute in a mild panic as the “office” remained firmly and determinedly closed.

Eventually though (not on time, of course) we were off in a 45 minute jet boat up the Wanganui. It was strange when one realised that all the sign postings were aimed at the river, rather than at a road, and then eventually we got to the rather muddy landing for another 45 minute walk to the bridge itself. While the surroundings feel very bushy, it is a sobering note to realise that the original forest was destroyed to make way for the farms that made the building of the Bridge to Nowhere possible. Changes in the economy and conservation policies spelled the end to the viability of farms there, but the bridge remains as a monument to the hardy farmers who tried to tame the land, and to the amount of “taming” they were actually able to achieve.

The bush regrowth is stunning though, with birds frolicking in the trees and the track to the bridge makes for a splendid stroll, though one you could probably get on Mt Victoria in Wellington than hours from anywhere. And the bridge itself is in better condition than a lot of the roads around the region (including SH4 to Wanganui – gosh, that one is a shocker).

For some great photos of all the above, check out FisherMan and Fish.

Verdict 1: Waitomo Caves – always fascinating, though I can’t find them as spiritual as some people obviously do, and a bit smaller than I remember from when I was a young King Countrian. 6 Glow worms out of 10.

Verdict 2: Bridge to Nowhere – a shining beacon in the bush, all alone in the night. 7 Spans out of 10, though minus 1 or 2 Spans in practicality (I know it is meant to be in the middle of nowhere, but getting to the jet boat dock itself is far more of a mission than it needs to be).